food
Harry Potter and the Farmer’s Market
This is part of the week-long Food for Thinkers carnival of posts hosted by Nicola Twilley over at GOOD Food HQ that all answer this question: “What does—or could, or even should—it mean to write about food today?”
If you’re somebody who’s interested in communicating big ideas, food is one of the most powerful tools you’ve got. It’s a universal, irresistible hook—the most common denominator. You can get people to think about economics, sociology, physiology, psychogeography (?!)—anything you want, really—if you simply connect it back to food. Not food policy!—I mean the real, tactile experience of food in the field and food on the plate.
And I think one way you can make it even more powerful is by combining it with another irresistible hook: fiction.

Back in October, in a paean to the great new sci-fi novel Windup Girl, I made this prediction (which was actually a pitch):
Science fiction is never really about the future—instead, it’s an interesting way to talk about the present. For decades, the genre huddled in the shade of the space race and the Cold War, because those were the dramas of the day. And it was in science fiction, I think, that we actually talked about them most honestly—about both our highest hopes (e.g. Star Trek) and our deepest fears (e.g. The Terminator—really a Cold War movie, and barely about robots at all).
So what’s present now? I think the next few really great works of science fiction—including, maybe, the next great science fiction movie—are going to be about food.
But actually, this is not such a leap from where we are now. I mean, I’ve been thinking about it, and: I’m not sure fiction even functions without food.
The places where we eat and drink are powerful junction points. In fiction, they’re the places where characters come together to share information and make new connections. Think of Monk’s from Seinfeld and Central Perk from Friends. Think of Rick’s American Cafe and the Prancing Pony. Think of the Mos Eisley Cantina!
There’s a reason every adventure starts in a tavern.

But we can take this further, right? Today, in 2011, food isn’t just part of the background; it’s right up front, in sharp focus. More people are operating as petit-gourmands than ever before, at least here in the U.S. and Europe. We think, every day, about our food’s composition and its origin. We look at labels. We ask for options. We feel waves of angst and dread. We are uncertain.
This is the perfect environment for fiction.
I mean, just think about all the drama up and down the food supply chain:
- The hustle and charm of a street food cart.
- The bustle (often bloody) of a working kitchen.
- The loyalties and betrayals of a winemaking dynasty.
- The real-life meathook horror of a factory farm.
- The rivalry and romance of a great farmer’s market.
- The secrets of a mysterious cheese shop.
What do you mean, there are no mysterious cheese shops? There ought to be mysterious cheese shops!

These people and places are story factories—just like hospitals, law firms, and all the other institutions that support long-running serial dramas. Every day, there’s a new crisis in the kitchen. Every week, some new stranger shows up at the farmer’s market.
But let me get tactical here. I’m going to talk about books, because it’s the medium I know best, and it’s where I see an opportunity—one that might make this a bit more concrete:
Right now, one of the big problems with books is that there are fewer and fewer credible places to sell them. The big chains are struggling; indies are an asterisk. Amazon is a titan, of course, but there are some other quiet giants, too: places like Wal-Mart and CostCo where thrillers and self-help books pile up four pallets deep. These are places where people mostly buy things other than books—so perhaps they constitute a new frontier.

But chew on this: there are more farmer’s markets than Whole Foods stores in the United States. So what if you set up a stand next to the radish-monger and sold books at the farmer’s market? What if wasn’t the same pulpy selection you get at Wal-Mart—the latest Lee Child and James Patterson—but instead an inventory specifically concocted to tickle the brains and tug the heart-strings of farmer’s market true believers?
Then, what about selling books at fancy food stores, wineries, and (yes) mysterious cheese shops? Don’t people have enough cook books already? Couldn’t those stores stock a little rack of cheap Food Cart Boys thrillers and sell them as impulse buys?
Maybe there’s another format that would work even better. Maybe it’s actually a rack of audio books, and you can play one in the kitchen while you make something great out of that dino kale and that mysterious cheese.

I think the market is ripe. Everybody’s wondering: okay, first vampires, then zombies… what’s next? What’s the next wave? I think it’s food: tales of weird sci-fi food, tales of illicit criminal food, tales of food and love.
I want the next wave to be food, because I think those could be amazing stories, and because I think they’re worth telling.
If Michael Pollan is right and one of the things that hurts us here in the U.S. is our lack of a coherent, deep-rooted food culture… well, maybe we need to start building that culture, at long last. But I don’t think we can do that with policy papers or New York Times Magazine articles, no matter how smart and wise they are. I think you need to do it with fiction—in every format, from books to TV to movies to video games.
But mostly books: books sold in new places, reaching new audiences, carrying new intellectual payloads.
The next boy wizard will enroll in a magical cooking school.
The next Jason Bourne will be pursued by a sinister agribusiness giant and/or the Tuna Yakuza.
The next Girl with the Dragon Tattoo will be a girl with a street food cart.

Read more Food for Thinkers posts over here at GOOD Food HQ!
Michael Pollan meets William Gibson
Science fiction is never really about the future—instead, it’s an interesting way to talk about the present. For decades, the genre huddled in the shade of the space race and the Cold War, because those were the dramas of the day. And it was in science fiction, I think, that we actually talked about them most honestly—about both our highest hopes (e.g. Star Trek) and our deepest fears (e.g. The Terminator—really a Cold War movie, and barely about robots at all).
So what’s present now? I think the next few really great works of science fiction—including, maybe, the next great science fiction movie—are going to be about food.
EVIDENCE!
Paolo Bacigalupi’s Windup Girl is the most original, bracing work of science fiction I’ve read in years. It’s as if somebody got into my house, walked right up to a door I’d never noticed, opened it wide and led me through into the corridor beyond. Of course, I’m saying to myself. Why didn’t I ever think to look here?
Bacigalupi paints a world of pandemic plagues, mass migrations, genetically-modified food, sealed-off hermit kingdoms and “calorie men” from agribusiness giants who behave more like secret agents than sales reps. All together, it’s dark, rich, weird, and compelling.
(It’s worth noting that I’d put Bacigalupi on the shelf next to Margaret Atwood right now. Atwood’s latest books come across, to me, as fairy tales, albeit dark ones. Bacigalupi weaves a broader tapestry. And we’re still waiting for our bio-Tolkien.)
Bacigalupi’s book made me think, as I was reading, of the history of wine and the “suitcase clones”—cuttings from legendary vineyards smuggled from Europe to America. There’s a bit of secret agent in that, too. It made me think of the Phylloxera plague that flowed back into European vineyards like an electrical current seeking the ground, scorching the earth. (You might know this already, but: almost every European grape now grows on American rootstock.)
It made me think of Jason Rezaian’s Kickstarter project to start the first avocado farm in Iran. (Just stop and think about that for a second. More secret agent stuff!)
It made me think of the colonization of America—the craziest most improbable post-apocalyptic sci-fi story of all, and fundamentally a story of biology.
There’s something here. The future hurtles toward us in the shape of… an avocado. In the shape of a pluot. In the shape of an asian carp. Forget Gattaca; genetic engineering’s crazy excesses are going to hit us in the bodega, not the bedroom. And forget Skynet; the real apocalypse starts when all the fish die.
This is what we’re worried about now. I think that, in the U.S. on any given day, more units of stress and dread are expended in the name of food than in the name of terrorist attacks. Of course, on TV we talk about terrorist attacks. In the President’s Daily Brief, they talk about terrorist attacks. But the dark layer of doom blooming silently beneath the surface—that’s food. (Well, I mean. Actually it’s oil in the Gulf of Mexico. But metaphorically! Food.)
I feel like this is such fertile ground, not only because it’s actually important (it is) but also because it’s so commercial! You could totally put a sci-fi food show on cable TV: Anthony Bourdain meets Bladerunner. You could sell a sci-fi food thriller to the entire West Coast of the United States: Michael Pollan meets William Gibson.
But that’s all good. That’s a start. That’s how we begin to talk about these big scary things that spread out beneath the surface of our whole society, right here, today: we pretend we’re talking about the future instead.
Update: Anthony Bourdain is, in fact, doing a comic book—a “futuristic action thriller!” I—love—it. Via Tim Shey.
Food auteurism
Here’s an idea related to “even your coffee has an author-function”: food auteurism, a phrase which seems very natural and yet before today didn’t have any hits on Google.
For most of the 20th century, after the industrialization of the food and agriculture industry, food was mostly anonymous. Traditionally, your farmer, grocer, butcher, rabbi vouched for the quality of your food, but that gave way to government inspections, certification, and standardization, plus branding.
Now, though, that industrial anonymity is troubling, and we increasingly want our food to be sourced. This is partly driven by nutrition, partly by social concerns, and partly by a need to differentiate our identity through what we eat. And it’s achieved partly through a return to a quasi-preindustrial model (farmers’ markets and local gardens), partly through a shift in brand identification (let me drink 15th Avenue Coffee instead of Starbucks), and partly through a new rise in authority of food writers and experts: Alice Waters, Michael Pollan, Mark Bittman.
It’s a new way to generate and focus cultural attention, and to help us make sense of the explosion of information and misinformation about food. Food as an information network.
Salt and Fat
Salt and Fat is my kinda food blog. Behold: biscuits.
The Holy Grail
A few years back, I Asked MetaFilter: “What do you think is the cheapest, healthiest, tastiest, easiest meal to prepare?”
I got several excellent answers. But having now made this lentil tomato stew numerous times, I realize I’ve found the answer. Every time I make it, I’m shocked at how easy it is, how delicious it is, and how cheap it is. And dagnabit, it’s also super-healthy. Thought I’d share. Back to playing Dragon Age: Origins.
The Church of First Produce
Matt’s looking at how the internet is changing churches; Mark Bittman looks at how the internet ought to be changing the real spiritual center of most neighborhoods today, the grocery store.
The one time I tried shopping online I was sent a free watermelon — how does that happen? — but that didn’t make up for the even-less-than-supermarket quality of the food. This is my fantasy about virtual grocery shopping: that you could ask and be told the provenance and ingredients of any product you look at in your Web browser. You could specify, for example, “wild, never-frozen seafood” or “organic, local broccoli.”
You could also immortalize your preferences (“Never show me anything whose carbon footprint is bigger than that of my car”; “Show me no animals raised in cages”; “Don’t show me vegetables grown more than a thousand miles from my home”), along with any and all of your cooking quirks (“When I buy chicken, ask me if I want rosemary”). You would receive, if you wanted, an e-mail message when shipments of your favorite foods arrived at the store or went on sale; you could get recipe ideas, serving suggestions, shopping lists, nutritional information and cooking videos. If poor-quality food arrived — yellowing broccoli, stinky fish, whatever — you would receive store credit without any hassle. You might even, I suppose, be able to ask the store to limit the amount of impulse purchases that you make — forget that second pint of Ben & Jerry’s or those Cheez-Its you have trouble resisting.
These are services I’d be willing to pay for. And suppose this online grocer also sold precut or preseasoned vegetables, meat, fish and so on that were made with high-quality ingredients. (Surely I’m not alone in believing that the worst carrots are selected to be formed into “baby” carrots or that premarinated meats feature not only inferior meats but also inferior seasonings.) Maybe I could order my precut broccoli to be parboiled for two minutes, shocked, tossed with slivered garlic and packaged with a lemon. It would be ready for me to refrigerate until I’m ready to eat, and then, in five minutes, I could sauté, dress and put it on the table.
Gosh. True personalization in online retail really is the holy grail, isn’t it? Everyone wants it. We think it should be easy, that it’s right around the corner — but nobody never quite gets there.
No corporation big enough to pull off an operation like online grocery shopping is nimble enough to actually pay special attention to you as a person. It seems like online shopping can give you personalization roughly up to the level where you can pick one of five choices. Also, 50–60% of the time, at least two of them will be unavailable. Even with something like Amazon, which has a pretty sophisticated recommendation engine, I often find myself chastising it, like an unfavored lover: “sometimes I think that you don’t know me at all.”
As for complex operations like Bittman’s parboiled broccoli with garlic — which admittedly sounds delicious — if you can’t get either your grocery’s butcher or your favorite chef to tailor your order that precisely, you’re never going to get a drop-down menu to do it.
Some of these other ideas are great — but when it comes to the cooking, unless we’re willing to take what the supermarket’s serving, we’re on our own.
Wild kitchen
This, from Katie Kwan, is one of the most San Francisco things I have ever seen, in the best possible way. A rogue restaurant, one night only, in the back alley of a bike shop. A super-foodie menu featuring weird charcuterie. Pickleweed tempura! (I want some!) And—best of all—a bit of documentation and reflection.

