But in the meantime, I like this: Jane Pinckard dubs El Bulli grub nerd food. In other words: Isn’t it cool that El Bulli concerns itself so fully with experimentation and imagination instead of just, say, organic simplicity?
Here in the Bay Area, we live under a tyranny of Alice Waters — a benevolent dictatorship, to be sure, full of good intentions, but her basic philosophy, which has since spread to all parts of the U.S., strictly stipulates that food is naturally good and ought not to be tampered with more than necessary. Good, high quality food can shine best with minimal handling. Her techniques evince a deep respect for the natural structures of meat, vegetables, pastas, spices, and so on. Her food is delicious, and her work with farmer’s markets and school’s eating programs are very deservedly much admired.
But surely there’s got to be good, healthy food that looks forward, too. El Bulli shows the way.